FLOWERS: Brilliant Crocheted Blooms

Designed by: Nazanin Fard
YOU’LL NEED:

• Size E Crochet hook
• 5 yds./color of DMC Senso thread in three desired colors

Skill Level: Intermediate

Stitch Gauge: 6 sc = 1"

Note: Petal rounds are worked from front of flower to back.

Rosette: With one color, ch 5. Sl st into first ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: * Ch 7, sl st into the ring; rep from * 6 times. (6 petals started)

Rnd 2: * (sc, hdc, dc, 5 tr, dc, hdc, sc) in next ch-sp*; rep from * alternating colors for each petal. (You will have two petals per color.)

Rnd 3: Sl st into the center ring inside of the first petal, * ch 9, sl st into center ring inside of next petal.* (6 petals started for second row)

Rnd 4: * (sc, hdc, dc, 7 tr, dc, hdc, sc) in next ch-sp*; rep from * alternating between colors for each petal. Fasten off.

Weave in all ends.

FLOWER

The Basic Flower


Original Design by Fiber Star – Samantha Stopple

Copyright March 2006 : You are free to use these designs for your personal use. You may sell items you make with these. You man NOT hire someone to make these to sell. If you do make these please make note that you used my design. When you print off these patterns please include this copyright information.



For all the flowers I suggest the following:

ww yarn of you choice in 2-3 colors
I liked to use a texture yarn to jazz up the flower
needle to weave in ends

NOTES:

Joining: Where ever it says join you can sl st to join or you can do an invisible join
Finishing off: Weave in ends or colors if you want.

You do need to know how to add new colors.

The Basic Flower:

You can work the flowers in a single color or change colors at each round.

Round 1:
Ch8 sl st join to make ring; Ch1
15 sc in ring, sl st to join

Round 2 options:
Small flower:
Ch6 skip 2st sc in next st around to make 5 petals (5 – 6ch loops) sl st to join;ch1; [(1sc, 1hdc, 2dc,ch1,2dc, 1hdc, 1sc) in the loop, ch1] around for each petal; join, fasten off

Medium flower:
Ch8 skip 2st sc in next st around to make 5 petals (5 – 8ch loops), sl st to join; ch1; [(2sc, 1hdc, 3dc,ch1, 3dc, 1hdc, 2sc ), ch1]; join
Here's what a medium flower looks like changing colors. I used Caron Simply Soft Orchid for the petals and a Mod Dea fancy purple for the center.

Large flower:

Ch10, skip 2sc, sc in the nxt st around for four petals sl st to join in the beg of the first Ch10; (3sc, 2hdc, 2dc, 1 tr, 2dc, 2hdc, 3sc) join

Round 3:

You can add more color:
Create a two-colored flower by doing an additional row around the petals in a different color:

Here’s an idea for the medium flower:

[(3sc, 2dc,3tr(in ch1), 2dc, 3sc) sc around ch1] for each petal, join, fasten off

Here's a flower I made adding an additonal row of color:



Using Caron Simply Soft Orchid to make Rounds 1& 2 then I used Mod Dea purple fancy yarn for round 3 to make a two colored flower I added a center effect using Mod Dea again doing option B.




Center effect for the flower:

To create that pollen center effect in the flower, I suggest using a color with some texture to mimic the textured look many flowers have from stamens/pollen or a different color.


A: sc in each sc of the ring

B: sc ch1 around

C: sc ch2 around

Maybe introduce a picot stitch too! Or if you do a larger flower maybe you could repeat the smaller flower instructions from Round 2 around for a three-dimensional affect.

Another Flower Pattern (6 petals)

 Here's another flower I found in  this weekend in

http://www.allfreecrochet.com/Crochet-Flower-Patterns/6-Petal-Flower-Pattern

I love the larger center, lack of gaps, and ease of this double-layer daisy.

For those of you who are scared of new stitches, there's no back post single crochet!

Grab the following items and give it a try:

Small amounts of worsted weight yarn, 2 colors (I used Sugar 'n' Cream Robin's Egg Blue and Tangerine)

F crochet hook (unless you crochet loosely, then I'd suggest using a G hook)

Yarn needles

Something to embellish

Notes: BLO means work in the back loop of the stitch only. FLO means to work in the front loop.

Ready?
Pattern:

Chain 2. (dos cadenas)


Round 1: 6 SC in the first chain. Don't slip stitch to join.
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12 in all). Sl st in BLO of the next stitch.



Round 3: We're creating the back row of petals first. *Ch 3, skip 1, sc in BLO of next stitch.* Five times. Ch 3, sl st in first ch 3 space to join. You should now have 6 ch 3 spaces.



Round 4: Ch 2, 5 dc, ch 2, sl st. Work *Sl st , ch 2, 5 dc, ch 2, sl st* in each of the remaining ch 3 spaces. You should have 6 petals. Cut yarn.


Round 5: Join your second color yarn in any of the front loops that you left unworked. *ch 2, skip 1, sc in FLO of next stitch* five times. Ch 2, sl st in the first ch 2 space to join.






Round 6: Ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2, sl st. Work *Sl st , ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2, sl st* in each of the remaining ch 3 spaces. You should now have 6 petals in front of your original row of petals.



I attached my finished flower to a simple, double-stranded headband using a small felt circle and hot glue.





My finished product looks like this. I love how the ribbon closure makes these headbands adjustable. This headband will fit my 1 year old or a 6 year old.



This pattern can be used for embelishment of a scarf, sweater, hats, slippers etc.

ENJOY!!!!






Please put a link back to this pattern if you share or sell an item using this

Crochet Flower: Internet discovery of the day

Make a quick flower with just a little bit of yarn...

• You can use ANY weight yarn, just make sure to crochet with the correct size hook for the yarn
• if the beginning chain is too small or too big for your wrist, adjust accordingly and the pattern will still work up great.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain
beg = beginning
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
join = join with sl st
* = repeat between *'s

INSTRUCTIONS
(do not turn work while following these instructions)

with crochet hook F, ch 8, join to beg to form a ring, ch 1
round 1: work 17 sc around ring, join to beg (18 sts)
round 2: *ch 8, join to third sc* around (making 6 petals), join to beg

round 3: in each petal, *skip first ch, work 1 sl st in each of next 5 chains, join between petals with sl st*, join to beg

round 4: *ch 11, join to a loop behind between petals, ch 11, join between petals* around, join to beg (pick any loop in the back of work to join the ch 11) --->

You're done ! !

Hexagon- Chapter 1- Todays Internet discovery

Hexagon How-to

You need to concentrate to do them!








16 different colours.
4mm hook, and the size of the finished hexagon as you can see above is roughly hand-sized. Each straight side measures 6cm, and about 11cm across between the points.

First off chain 4 and join to form a ring. The hole in the centre of the ring will be smallish, but this is where you need to work from for the first round. Tweak it a bit with your fingers to open it out a little.

Chain 3, then work 11 double crochet stitches (US) or treble crochet stitches (UK) into the ring. Join with a slip stitch to the 3rd stitch of the initial chain 3 and fasten off.

You should now have a little whirly wheel circle with 12 stitches/spokes altogether.
Join in a new colour for round 2 :: knot the two yarns together, remember like I showed you for the Granny Squares? Remember you can crochet the ends in as you go with the hex's too, to save you darning ends in at the end.

Pull the new colour yarn through to the front, through one of the dc/tr stitches :: you are working out of the stitches in this round, not the spaces in between the spokes.

For this round, you're going to be making what I think is known as a Bobble Stitch. It's basically where you work two incomplete dc/tr's into the same stitch, joining them at the end by pulling the yarn through all loops.


I shall describe it to you :: yarn over, insert hook through next stitch, yarn over, hook back through stitch (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Then yarn over and insert hook through SAME STITCH, yarn over, hook back through stitch (4 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

So this is the pattern for round 2::

Chain 2, then 1 US dc/UK tr in same stitch. Chain 1.

Work a bobble stitch into next stitch as described above, then chain 1 to space.

Repeat 10 more times until you get back to the beginning and have 12 "bobbles" in total. Join round with a slip stitch into the 2nd stitch of the initial chain 2.

round 3 :: Nice and easy now, you're doing dc/tr clusters just like you do for granny squares. You are working out of the SPACES now, the spaces between the bobble stitch clusters of your previous row.

Join a new colour, pull loop through a space between 2 bobble clusters to start.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc/tr), work US dc/UK tr twice into same space, then chain 1.

Work US dc/UK tr three times into next space, chain 1.

Repeat 10 more times until you get back to the beginning and have 12 "clusters" in total. Join round with a slip stitch into the 3rd stitch of the initial chain 3 and fasten off.

Round 4 :: the chain-loop round ::
Join in a new colour and pull loop through a space between the dc/tr clusters of the previous row.
Chain 3, then make a slip stitch into the next space between your dc/tr clusters :: this anchors the chain loop.

Continue making little chain-3's, slip stitching them in place in the gap between the dc/tr clusters of the previous round. Join the last chain-3 with slip stitch into the first chain stitch you made. Do not fasten off as you will use the same colour for round 5.

Round 5 is the final round that forms the hexagon shape. I'm going to tell you how to crochet this as a single hexagon before we talk about the joining-as-you-go method.

We are using the same colour as the last round, and you will be working the stitches under the chain-3 loops you created. So to begin, make a slip stitch under the nearest chain-3 loop.

Chain 3 (counts as one dc/tr), then US dc / UK tr twice. Chain 2 (this is the corner spacing), then in the SAME chain-3 loop, US dc / UK tr three times. This is your first corner, it should look like a double cluster of 6 dc/tr's with a pointy corner bit in the middle.

Into the next chain-3 loop, work US dc / UK tr three times. This is a single cluster and makes a straight side.

Into the next chain-3 loop, work US dc / UK Tr three times, chain 2, then US dc / UK Tr three times. This is your second corner.

Continue working your way round making your clusters of 3 dc's /tr's, alternating between making a double cluster corner group (with chain 2 spacing) and a straight side single cluster. You should be ending the round on a straight-side group of three dc's/Tr's. Join the round with a slip stitch and fasten off.

See?????? It's not so hard?????? You've made your first hexagon!!!

Now if you're happy to make lots of single hexagons and join them all by stitching, then that's absolutely fine. But joining them as you go is fairly easy, although a little fiddly.

You will be working anti-clockwise, starting with a corner, as shown above.

To begin, you make a single cluster as before (chain 3, then dc/tr twice). Then instead of chaining 2 to make your corner spacing, chain ONE, then replace your second chain space with a slip stitch into the corner space of the ajoining hexagon.

Then working into the SAME chain-3 loop, dc/tr three times to finish your corner cluster.

Now you need to slip stitch into the next space of the ajoining hexagon to secure (see above). Basically, you have to insert hook into the space, hook the yarn from the back and pull it through to the front :: first through the space, then through the loop on the hook. It takes a bit of practice, it can be fiddly. But persevere.


You continue to work your way round, forming the hex shape in the same way as described above, but making sure that after each cluster you slip stitch into the relevant space on the ajoining hexagon which makes the attachment. When you get to a corner where you would normally chain 2, you make 2 slip stitches instead (in picture above, one slip stitch is made into the corner of the bright blue hex, and the next slip stitch into the corner of the sage green hex). This is quite hard to explain in words :: please do look over Alex's tutorial, she has some great photos to illustrate. But keep in mind that her pattern is different to mine, she uses more stitches so try not to get confused.

Thanks to: the crator of this pattern!!!!

Tips of the day

From YARN CRAFT

I have heard many knitters and crocheters complain that their sleeves come out two different lengths. To solve this problem, I use 2 skeins of yarn and make both sleeves at the same time.


Editor's note: This great technique of working both items of a pair at the same time can be used for everything from socks to gloves. Since tension changes over time, it helps to ensure that your tension is the same on both pieces!

Good Morning!

Dear Penelopes and art friends

Here I am, not feeling so good today (headache, fever, throat ache...) and dreaming of getting out of bed for going to my favourite Yarn Store as I am finishing my proyect. A round, heavy, knee-long round sweater. I am knitting it in a pink-rape sort of colour, in different textures and type of yarns, including a silk one which is really beautiful. Here some photos of the one I am knitting now... hope you like it!!!

Probably my next one will be in greys.

Here my tips:

1. I select different yarns of different textures using a basic color such as green or brown or pink or grey. Whatever... you choose will be fine.
2. Another great thing of making a sweater combining different yarns of the same colour is that if you run ouyt of yarn you may just buy more anywhere...
3. For the hard winter I love heavy yarns (the heavier the better), they not only feel warmer but you knit them quicker and may enjoy your sweater in one weeks time!!! Isn´t that great?! every week with a different new, original, nobody-has sweater?

4. FOr heavy yarns I just knit in double crochet (vareta simple) so it is much quicker!!!
5. For different finishings_
1.  knit your arms either in crochet or you may also knit them in two needles.
2. You may finish the arms with a hairy yarn (two or three rows will do)!!! try it, you will love it!

Try them and enjoy creating new designs and patterns over the ones you have already knitted and you are confident you manage!!!! you will see that it is simply an adiction to go to yarn stores and discover different combinations!!!!

Till later today!

Hugs

May

Crochet Puntos